By Abby Bielagus -- January 30, 2009
Atmosphere:
For decades, the Spanish restaurant Iruņa had no problem filling their dining room with hungry patrons. But after the doors closed a couple years back, and an unsuccessful venture came and went, it seemed the space was destined to sit empty. Thankfully, husband and wife team Jerome and Stephanie Picca have brought a renewed energy to the charming eatery just steps off the beaten path in Harvard Square. Stephanie's talent for interior design makes the petit dining room feel both open and cozy with long horizontal mirrors covering the walls and thick, hand-made curtains in warm tones decorating the windows. The decor is simple and understated allowing for touches like the flowers on the table and the crafted lampshades to take center-stage. The achievement is a space that feels appropriate for both a first date and a long-standing Sunday dinner with friends.
Food + Drink:
Immediately at ease upon entering the front door, the staff ensures confidence in their hands. Someone is there to greet you, take your coat, and within minutes serve a glass of wine. I started with a glass of Errazuriz Chilean cabernet, a heavy, full-bodied red perfect for a snowy winter night. All of the wines by the glass are $7 or $8 dollars and all the bottles (but three) sell for $28, encouraging sampling and indulging. Small Plates is only licensed to sell beer and wine, but the drink list is rounded out with a selection of wine cocktails. I tried one made of cava, pinot grigio, triple sec and mango. Although the drink looked well-suited for the tropics and not Cambridge in January, it turned out to be just the elixir for melting the winter doldrums. Completely trusting now, I decided to let the kitchen decide our meal for us.
A nice mixture of hot and cold dishes and dishes from the land, sea and field began to arrive in well-timed choreography. Highlights included pork tenderloin served over large, spicy, rattlesnake beans and topped with a blackberry compote ($9); roast sweet potato and beet salad with fresh micro greens, herbed chevre and a lightly drizzled black currant dressing ($8); organic wild mushrooms with basil oil and generous pieces of poached garlic ($8) and tender rabbit timbale topped with apple and served with a liden berry sauce ($10). Our sampling of tapas also included beef satay with mango chutney and a spicy peanut sauce ($8); chicken souvlaki with tzatziki, crisp flatbread and a tomato and feta salad ($10); and cashew crusted duck breast with rhubarb stuffing and roasted seckle pears ($11). Each dish was beautifully prepared and I appreciated the variety of flavors and cuisines.
Throughout our meal we had visits from Jerome and Stephanie and it is clear from even the briefest of chats, that these two are passionate about their latest culinary endeavor. Jerome alternated between speaking at length of his own personal history and the dishes before us. His attempt at light heartedness and fun is obvious from the subtle jokes embedded in the menu and in some of the dishes' preparation. For example, the salmon roulettes are served over blue ice cubes made from a blue Curacao gelee and the pie a la mode is referred to as "pie a la mood" complete with pi symbol and a daily change based upon the kitchen's whim. I'm still not so sure about the blue ice cubes, but the kitchen was in a good mood when it was dessert time. Our pie was chocolate ($7) and served with a genius whipped mint cream that was the cake's perfect companion.
Assessment:
The night we dined at Small Plates, the dining room was full and expressions of delight were overheard from nearby tables. I predict that the dining room continues to be filled with satisfied diners because Jerome and Stephanie have perfected the recipe: equal parts friendly, efficient service, casual yet professional setting, consistently well-prepared dishes and prices that won't break the bank.
Atmosphere:
For decades, the Spanish restaurant Iruņa had no problem filling their dining room with hungry patrons. But after the doors closed a couple years back, and an unsuccessful venture came and went, it seemed the space was destined to sit empty. Thankfully, husband and wife team Jerome and Stephanie Picca have brought a renewed energy to the charming eatery just steps off the beaten path in Harvard Square. Stephanie's talent for interior design makes the petit dining room feel both open and cozy with long horizontal mirrors covering the walls and thick, hand-made curtains in warm tones decorating the windows. The decor is simple and understated allowing for touches like the flowers on the table and the crafted lampshades to take center-stage. The achievement is a space that feels appropriate for both a first date and a long-standing Sunday dinner with friends.
Food + Drink:
Immediately at ease upon entering the front door, the staff ensures confidence in their hands. Someone is there to greet you, take your coat, and within minutes serve a glass of wine. I started with a glass of Errazuriz Chilean cabernet, a heavy, full-bodied red perfect for a snowy winter night. All of the wines by the glass are $7 or $8 dollars and all the bottles (but three) sell for $28, encouraging sampling and indulging. Small Plates is only licensed to sell beer and wine, but the drink list is rounded out with a selection of wine cocktails. I tried one made of cava, pinot grigio, triple sec and mango. Although the drink looked well-suited for the tropics and not Cambridge in January, it turned out to be just the elixir for melting the winter doldrums. Completely trusting now, I decided to let the kitchen decide our meal for us.
A nice mixture of hot and cold dishes and dishes from the land, sea and field began to arrive in well-timed choreography. Highlights included pork tenderloin served over large, spicy, rattlesnake beans and topped with a blackberry compote ($9); roast sweet potato and beet salad with fresh micro greens, herbed chevre and a lightly drizzled black currant dressing ($8); organic wild mushrooms with basil oil and generous pieces of poached garlic ($8) and tender rabbit timbale topped with apple and served with a liden berry sauce ($10). Our sampling of tapas also included beef satay with mango chutney and a spicy peanut sauce ($8); chicken souvlaki with tzatziki, crisp flatbread and a tomato and feta salad ($10); and cashew crusted duck breast with rhubarb stuffing and roasted seckle pears ($11). Each dish was beautifully prepared and I appreciated the variety of flavors and cuisines.
Throughout our meal we had visits from Jerome and Stephanie and it is clear from even the briefest of chats, that these two are passionate about their latest culinary endeavor. Jerome alternated between speaking at length of his own personal history and the dishes before us. His attempt at light heartedness and fun is obvious from the subtle jokes embedded in the menu and in some of the dishes' preparation. For example, the salmon roulettes are served over blue ice cubes made from a blue Curacao gelee and the pie a la mode is referred to as "pie a la mood" complete with pi symbol and a daily change based upon the kitchen's whim. I'm still not so sure about the blue ice cubes, but the kitchen was in a good mood when it was dessert time. Our pie was chocolate ($7) and served with a genius whipped mint cream that was the cake's perfect companion.
Assessment:
The night we dined at Small Plates, the dining room was full and expressions of delight were overheard from nearby tables. I predict that the dining room continues to be filled with satisfied diners because Jerome and Stephanie have perfected the recipe: equal parts friendly, efficient service, casual yet professional setting, consistently well-prepared dishes and prices that won't break the bank.